The press is released and the die removed. Then the handle is cranked down to bubble the line. Next, the press slides over the base and positioned over the die. The press is threaded down until the die touches the base. The press locks over the base and the over the die. The stub drops inside the line to secure the die. Next, the die is inserted into the line with the stub sliding into the line itself. Note that the line is clamped into the base flush with the step on the die. Once this is set, the wing-nuts can be fully tightened.įor this demonstration, we have secured the base in a vise. The die has a step, this is the depth of the line for the flare. The die must match the line you are flaring. The hard line should be loaded into the corresponding hole and the wing-nut clamps tighten enough to hold the line. The flaring tool base is easiest to manage when secured in a vise, but can be used without a vise if necessary. Make sure that the fitting is on the line and facing the right direction before flaring the end.
#Make double pdf install
Don’t forget this, as you can’t install the fitting once the line is flared. Don’t forget to clean out the inside of the line after cutting.īefore placing the tubing into the flaring tool, the fitting must be slid onto the line. Tighten the cutting head once every pass around the line for get a clean cut. You don’t want to load the brake line into the cutter and just crank down the cutting wheel. Tubing cutters work best when the blade is tightened after every pass. Some kits come with a tubing cutter, you need one regardless. The end of the line must be clean and smooth.
#Make double pdf how to
We will focus on how to use the manual flaring tool. You can make a double flare in a matter of seconds with these kits. It uses quick-set dies and a lever-actuated ram to press the flaring heads into the line. These often cost a few hundred dollars, and are excellent for the builder that needs to make many flared lines, such as when restoring a car. Leveraged Manual – The leveraged manual flaring tool uses dies and a swing-arm to press the flares into the line much faster and easier than a basic manual kit. Hydraulic – Hydraulic flaring tools are generally only used in shops where a lot of line flares are made on a regular basis, the average DIY mechanic does not need one. This kit looks like the double flaring kit, but does not have the dies and has a 37-degree head. This 37-degree tool looks the same, but notice that it does not come with the dies.įor AN fitting, you need a single 37-degree flare.
AN or Army-Navy fittings require 37-degree single flares. 45-degree flares are the most common in automotive use. There are two types of flares: 45-degree and 37-degree. You can use these under the car on in a vise, making them very versatile. This is the most common tool you will find for flaring lines, the manual clamp. These tools are clamped into a vise, and use dies and a threaded press to impart the flare. These kits are inexpensive and readily available at any NAPA Auto Parts Store. Manual – This what you will be dealing with. Most of the time you will be dealing with a manual tool, usually mounted in a vise. There are three types of flaring tools: manual, hydraulic, and leverage manual. There are several key points that you need to know before you get started, so get ready to learn how to make a double flare brake line. It is not difficult, but if you have never done it before, it can seem like a bit of voodoo. That was 25 years ago, now I can make a double-flare in my sleep. Cutting and bending the line was easy, but we had a heck of a time figuring out how to flare the line, as the kit did not come with instructions. They provided a double flaring tool and a piece of hard line to cut and bend to size. Having never done this before, we went to the parts store for some advice. We had no choice but to cut it off and make a new hard line. The rear hard line for the wheel cylinder had rusted up and the nut was stripped. My dad and I were doing a brake job on our 1987 Suburban.
I still remember the first time I had to put a double-flare on a hard steel line.
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